A busy weekend for UChiFood: Girl and the Goat on Friday and Birrieria Zaragoza on Saturday.
I left from Hyde Park around 7:30 Friday night with two friends and arrived at Girl and the Goat (hereafter referred to as GatG) around 8:30, without a reservation. We were quoted a 45 minute wait and seated within about 30 minutes. With one dining restriction to consider (no pork) we quickly set to work making our menu selections. After some discussion, we decided to start with the Bloody Mary Bread and order two selections from the Veg, two from the Fish, and one from the Goat. We ordered the chickpea fritters, hen of the woods ragout, hiramasa crudo, mussels with lamb chorizo croutons, and the goat belly confit.
The bread was very good, soft, dense, and fresh from the oven. I don’t miss free bread service at most restaurants and this was a much better way to start the meal than serving a recycled mixed bread basket. There are three choices to select from – the bread we chose came with a Worcestershire butter and celery pickle relish.
Next came the chickpea fritters. The flavors were great, but the textural and temperature contrast between the different components of the dish really allowed for it to stand out. The cool mozzarella balanced out the crisply fried fritters and the dish was rounded out by the caponata (mix of fresh chickpeas, eggplant, and other vegetables.) I would order this dish again.
We came very close to not ordering the hiramasa crudo after seeing the plate delivered to the couple next to us. It looked to be a few thin slices of yellowtail topped with a sauce and meager accompaniments ($16). After taking a bite, the couple insisted that the dish was a “must order,” so we decided to try it on their recommendation. This dish stood out that night as being one of the only courses which tended toward restraint or minimalism. The yellowtail was excellent, it was topped with small green chili slices, a sort of cream sauce, and confit pork belly. I enjoyed it, but there were about eight bites to share between the three of us.
After the crudo came the hen of the woods ragout and the mussels. The ragout was very creamy (almost like a bisque) with a nutty spice which lent the whole dish a sort of sweet kick. It was an odd combination of flavors which brought out the sweetness in the mushrooms and the sweet potato agnolotti. My table probably enjoyed this course the least and I don’t think I would order it again. It seemed as though many of the dishes at GatG were focused on delivering on flavor rather than balance and I think that was most apparent in this course.
The mussels were very good. They were exceptionally large PEI mussels (some of the largest I have seen anywhere) served with lamb sausage croutons in a wonderful broth. This was probably my favorite course of the evening, along with being the best value ($12.)
We rounded out the meal with some confit goat belly with crab ‘n’ lobster (?!) The goat belly was excellent, well cooked with some crispy parts (think carnitas.) The accompanying crab and lobster was strange, but not untasty. The whole dish tasted good, but I was still confused about the flavor pairings afterward.
Declining dessert, we settled the bill and ended up paying around $32 per person, less than I was expecting to pay. I was anxious that GatG would not be able to meet up to the hype, but I was not disappointed. All in all, a very reasonable night out with ambitious flavor pairings and interesting dishes.
I give GatG four stars:
On Saturday, I ventured out to Archer Heights to try Birrieria Zaragoza. Birria is a mexican stew from Jalisco so a Birrieria is an establishment which sells birria. Birrieria Zaragoza has a narrowly edited menu, which includes birria in two portion sizes, quesadillas, salsa mocajate, birria tacos, and tomato consomme. The restaurant closes at 7:00, and in typical college fashion we arrived 20 minutes late (at 6:40.) Despite our last minute arrival, we were treated incredibly graciously. When I tried to order a beer, I was informed that they did not serve alcohol but were a BYOB establishment and we could run out and buy beer a few blocks down Archer. We placed our orders for salsa and a quesadilla and plate of birria each an left to find beer. After walking several blocks, we arrived at the store they had directed us to only to find that it was closed for renovation. We ended up walking around for several blocks in an attempt to find beer and ended up at 7-9-11 25 minutes after we’d left the restaurant and picked up a 12 pack of Pacifico.
When we finally, sheepishly walked back into the restaurant it was already 10 minutes past 7:00. Our friend who had stayed had been talking with the owner, Johnathan, for half an hour. The kitchen had held off on bringing out our food until we came back. Rather than being annoyed, our waitress was concerned that we’d gotten lost. We were served within a few minutes of getting back and the food was absolutely outstanding. The quesadilla was perfect, especially with the home made fire roasted tomato salsa, onions, limes, chilis, and cilantro. The birria was like a plate of the best, most succulent pot roast I’ve ever had. The tortillas were hot and fresh – tender and pliable so as not to break under the heaping portions of goat and consomme piled on. After we’d finished our meal, we stayed to talk with Norma, Johnathan’s wife. The restaurant is family owned (almost all of the staff are family members) and the emphasis on authenticity and service is commendable. Birrieria Zaragoza is another restaurant which has received lots of hype and recognition, but this dining experience completely blew my expectations out of the water. The food is outstanding, but beyond being talented restauranteurs, the members of the Zaragoza family are some of the warmest, funniest people I have met in Chicago.
I will definitely be back soon – taking care to arrive earlier and with beer on hand.
I would be incorrect in giving Birrieria Zaragoza anything less than five stars:
Coming up this week: I attempt to knock another two restaurants off my shortlist, Nightwood and Piece. And maybe going blonde in between.